Clothing Project – Fitted Waistband Skirt

Posted by on Mar 17, 2015 in Fitted Skirt, Lessons, Projects, Sewing | Comments Off on Clothing Project – Fitted Waistband Skirt

Congratulations, you made an elastic skirt! Now it’s time to move onto something a little more difficult. The next logical step is to make another kind of skirt that has some great structure and design elements. This time, we’re going to make a fitted waist skirt with a waistband, lining, zipper, and hook and bar closure. That means we’ll be covering a lot of techniques including personalization, fitting, and some new tools that you may or may not have. Because of all those things, you’ll find that this particular tutorial will take a little longer than the last one. Just have some patience.

Also, if you haven’t made an elastic waist skirt before (whether through my tutorials or on your own), you should probably go back to the last project and make one. This project builds on a lot of the foundations set forth on that. In fact there are a couple of the steps that will link back to steps in the elastic waist skirt.

Click here to download the build list.

Concepts covered in this project:

  • Completing your skirt sloper
  • Altering your sloper into an A-line
  • Sewing darts
  • Lining a skirt
  • The invisible hem
  • Inserting a zipper
  • Making a waistband
  • Hook & bar closures

See? A lot of new concepts! The steps will be as follows:

  • Materials List
  • Bottom-weight fabrics
  • Linings
  • Choosing a Skirt Shape
  • How much fabric do you need?
  • What’s a sloper?
  • Optional tools: The Hip Curve (Coming April 1!)
  • Converting your elastic waist skirt pattern into a sloper (Coming April 3!)
  • Making a pattern from your sloper (Coming April 13!)
  • Finishing fabric edges Part 2 (Coming April 15!)
  • Marking & Sewing Darts (Coming April 17!)
  • Cutting out your skirt lining (Coming April 20!)
  • Pinning for Speed (Coming April 22!)
  • Sewing the skirt & lining (Coming April 24!)
  • Tools: The Zipper Foot (Coming April 27!)
  • Inserting the zipper (Coming April 29!)
  • The invisible hem (Coming May 1!)
  • Drafting a waistband pattern (Coming May 4!)
  • Making the waistband (Coming May 6!)
  • Attaching the waistband to the skirt (Coming May 7!)
  • The Hook & Bar closure (Coming May 8!)

So, this project will take us all the way through April. Are you excited? I sure am!

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Layering Clear Jamberry Shields

Posted by on Apr 14, 2015 in Jamberry, Tutorial | Comments Off on Layering Clear Jamberry Shields

Jamberry has about 25 different clear designs (click here to see all of them!), and since I started using their regular nail shields a year an a half ago, I have been told at least 20 times that these clear designs can potentially be layered on top of solid colours or gradients, to create a new look. I was curious as to how this was done, but also wasn’t brave enough to try it yet. Then we came out with Deck the Halls at Christmastime.
Deck the Halls

Deck the Halls was the first clear wrap I’d ever really wanted to try, so I ordered it. I also had half a sheet of Sugarplum Glimmer left over from the only time I tried to wear a solid colour (I’m just a little too crazy for that). Sugarplum seemed like a Christmas-y enough colour.
Then I went looking for information on how to actually layer shields, and I couldn’t find anything good. So, I took the snippets of information I’d been able to glean and developed this method:

The real trick to my method is that I layer the shields on the sheet. That lets me line them up properly and make adjustments as necessary. You’ll see as I progress that, as pieces get smaller, I layer the pieces on the nails instead of on the sheet.

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Making a Pattern from your Sloper

Posted by on Apr 13, 2015 in Fitted Skirt, Lessons, Projects, Sewing | Comments Off on Making a Pattern from your Sloper

This is step 6 in a series of lessons dedicated to help you design and make your own fitted waist skirt. If you’ve missed any steps, you should go back to this page.

Last time, I walked you through the process of drafting your very own skirt sloper. Today, we’re going to talk about how to turn those slopers (remember you made 2) into patterns for various skirt types.

You’re going to start with the slopers you made last time:

complete slopers Now, I’m going to reiterate a point I made last time:

sloper warningGot it? Good. Every alteration I’m going to show you is going to take place on a tracing of your slopers. I’m also going to show you the alterations on only one side of the sloper. It’s up to you to remember that you have to repeat the steps on the other side of the sloper.

You’re also going to see a lot of repetition. I figure you don’t want to read the headings you don’t want to draft a pattern for, so I’m going to tell you all the steps for each kind.

If you’d like, you can skip to the type of skirt you want to make by clicking the appropriate link:

Straight/Pencil Skirt

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloperMeasure 1 inch up from each of the darts and mark it.

straight pattern 1Make vertical lines one inch up from the centre of each dart.

straight pattern 2Draw a line from the top of the the vertical marks to the edges of each dart.

straight pattern 3Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

straight pattern 4Your Pencil Skirt pattern is now complete.

Basic A-Line

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloperRemember last time when we calculated “x”? If you don’t remember x, then measure the width of one of the darts. Measure the same amount out from the edge from the bottom of the curved edge of the skirt.

a-line pattern 1Draw a line connecting the edge of “x” to the part where your sloper starts to curve for the hip.

a-line pattern 2Connect the bottom of the skirt through the new edge.

a-line pattern 3Measure 1 inch up from each of the darts and mark it.

a-line pattern 4Make vertical lines one inch up from the centre of each dart. Draw a line from the top of the the vertical marks to the edges of each dart.

a-line pattern 5 a-line pattern 6

Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

a-line pattern 7Your Basic A-Line Skirt pattern is done!

Flared A-Line

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloper

Remember last time when we calculated “x”? If you don’t remember x, then measure the width of one of the darts. Measure the same amount out from the edge from the bottom of the curved edge of the skirt.

a-line pattern 1Draw a line connecting the edge of “x” to the part where your sloper starts to curve for the hip.

a-line pattern 2Connect the bottom of the skirt through the new edge.

a-line pattern 3Draw a line from the centre point of the deep dart to the bottom of the skirt.

a-line pattern 8Cut along that line then fold the dart in on itself. This will create a gap in the bottom of the skirt.

a-line pattern 9Trace around this new shape using your hip curve to make a new skirt hemline.

a-line pattern 10Measure 1 inch up from the centre of the dart.

a-line pattern 11Make vertical lines one inch up from the centre of the dart.

a-line pattern 12Draw a line from the top of the vertical mark to the edges of the dart.

a-line pattern 13Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

a-line pattern 14Your Flared A-Line skirt pattern is finished.

Flirty A-Line

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloper

Remember last time when we calculated “x”? If you don’t remember x, then measure the width of one of the darts. Measure the same amount out from the edge from the bottom of the curved edge of the skirt.

a-line pattern 1Draw a line connecting the edge of “x” to the part where your sloper starts to curve for the hip.

a-line pattern 2Connect the bottom of the skirt through the new edge.

a-line pattern 3Draw lines from the centre point of each dart to the bottom of the skirt.

a-line pattern 15 Cut from the bottom of the skirt to the point of the darts along the lines. Fold each of the darts in on each other. This will create gaps in the hemline of the skirt

a-line pattern 15Trace this new shape using your hip curve to slope the hem to its new point.

a-line pattern 16Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

a-line pattern 18Your Flirty A-Line Skirt pattern is complete!

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Converting your Elastic Skirt Pattern into a Sloper

Posted by on Apr 3, 2015 in Fitted Skirt, Lessons, Projects, Sewing | Comments Off on Converting your Elastic Skirt Pattern into a Sloper

This is step 5 in a series of lessons dedicated to help you design and make your own fitted waist skirt. If you’ve missed any steps, you should go back to this page.

So, when we made the elastic waist skirt, I walked you through drafting the pattern. I also mentioned that you shouldn’t throw that pattern away because we were going to use it in this project. Today, I’m going to follow through on that promise.  If you did not make the elastic waist skirt from that tutorial, or if something happened to that pattern, I’ll help you along as we go.

Today we’re going to make a skirt sloper.

This is very, very important:

sloper warningI cannot stress this enough. The only reason to throw away a sloper is because you made a new one. The next lesson will be about how to turn your sloper into different patterns and I will say over and over again trace your sloper. Don’t cut or alter it. Seriously. Don’t.

All right, if you haven’t gotten that message by now, you won’t, so let’s get to it.

When I left you on the elastic skirt, your pattern looked like this

sloper 12There was a front and back section and length lines galore. For the purposes of “I don’t hate you”, I’m going to be showing you how to change your elastic skirt pattern into a sloper without the length lines. I recommend you turning the patterns over to minimize confusion.

One more thing, remember that math teacher whom you told you’d never use geometry or algebra? Better call him/her and apologize.

First, you’re going to take the difference between your front hips and your front waist. Don’t forget to add ease. Remember that your Fabric Predictor has that added in for you on the reference sheet.

hips and waistWhile you’re at it, go ahead and do it for the back.

hips and waist bDivide these each by 4. We’ll call them x. Keep them defined as xfront and xback.

dart front darts backWrite those down and pull out one of your patterns from the last time. I’m showing the back pattern, but whatever you choose is fine. Just make sure that you know whether it’s the front or back pattern. Cut off the seam allowances at the side, but keep the extra inch you added at the top for the elastic waistband.

sloper2If you didn’t make an elastic skirt or you lost your pattern, you’ll need to make two rectangles, one for the front and one for the back. Make the width of each pattern your corresponding partial hip measurement plus ease. Make the length your waist to floor measurement. Add an inch at the top. Now we’re on task.

You will repeat the following steps for the front and back of the skirt sloper.

Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the other within the skirt pattern (not including the bonus inch). Use a pencil. Really.

bsloper3Fold your pattern in half. You can cut it in half if you’d like. You’ll do it eventually. Just make sure your cut is very straight.

bsloper4Draw a diagonal line on this half of the pattern from one corner to the other.

bsloper5The point where these intersect is precisely 1/3 of this pattern.

bsloper6Draw a line parallel to the sides at this point.

bsloper7Make an “X” in the remaining 2/3 of the pattern by drawing diagonal lines between the corner points.

bsloper8

Bonus activity: colour all of these sections to make a stained glass window!

Where the points of the new “X” meet is the other third of the pattern.

bsloper9Make a vertical line parallel to the sides at this point.

bsloper10I am now going to remove all the measurement lines so that the rest of the directions are more clear.

bsloper11I am also going to zoom into the top section of the skirt because that’s where all the excitement happens.

bsloper12Measure half and inch up and half an inch down on opposite ends of the waistline.

bsloper13Use your hip curve to draw between these two measurements. If you don’t have a hip curve, draw a gently curving line.

bsloper14Measure 1 inch over from the high side of the waistline.

bsloper15Use your hip curve to draw a curving line from that mark to where it meets the side. You can now erase the extra inch you had on your pattern.

bsloper16Mark your waist to hip measurement on the straight line. Draw a line perpendicular to the side at this mark.bsloper17

At the 2/3 mark (the one closest to the curved side), measure and mark two of your previously calculated xfront or xback (whichever is appropriate) on each side.

bsloper18Now in the middle of the marks on the right, draw a line to the hipline we marked earlier. In the middle of the marks to the left, draw a line halfway to the same line. Confused? Here’s a picture!

bsloper19These will become your darts (don’t worry, I’ll explain that when we get to it). Draw a line connecting the marks on each side of the line to the line. They’ll form triangles.

bsloper20And that’s really all there is to it! You’ll need to do this on the other side of the pattern too, but they’re all the same steps. When I finish making a sloper, I trace all my important lines in sharpie and erase all the pencil marks before I cut it out.

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