This is part 4 in a series designed to walk you through designing and sewing an elastic waistband skirt. If you have missed steps, you should go back to this page.
Today, we’re going to make the pattern for your elastic waistband skirt. It’s by far the easiest of the drafted garment patterns, but it will require a little bit of math.
The measurements you’ll need for this pattern are:
Waist to floor
Now you may be wondering why you need the front hip and back hip measurements as well as the full hip. That’s because some of us have a little more junk in the trunk. If you make a skirt that’s perfectly divided in half, you may end up with a side seam that looks like this:Making the skirt pattern the way I’m going to show you will result in a nice, straight side seam, like this:
First off, we’re going to do some math. Yes, yes, groan. It’s not hard math. First, you need to calculate the total width of your skirt. For that, you’ll need your total hip measurement, the ease you intend to add, and what your typical seam allowance is (usually 1/4 or 1/2-inch).
Plug those into this equation:
On the other hand, if you’re using the reference sheet you printed from the fabric predictor, you just have to add the seam allowance.
You’ll also want to calculate your front hip area. You could choose to do the back hip as well, but for demonstration purposes, I’ll be using the front hip.
Again, if you’re using the fabric predictor’s reference sheet, you just need to add seam allowance to the front hips total measurement.
Finally, add one inch to your waist to floor measurement.
Now, it’s time to make a pattern!
Start by drawing a line one inch from the top of your patterning paper. Make this line the full width of the skirt (first equation).
Make a mark at the measurement for the front hip (second equation).
From this mark, draw a line perpendicular to the first line. This line should be one inch longer than the waist-to-floor measurement, if possible. If not, take note of how much shorter your paper is than this measurement. You might need to lengthen your pattern at a later date.
Add seam allowances to either side of this line.
Draw vertical lines down from either end of the horizontal line.
Mark in from these lines the seam allowance measurement you usually use.
Mark a line across the bottom of the skirt pattern.
Ready for more math? I knew you would be! First, take your waist to floor measurement and multiply it by 0.25, 0.5, and 0.75. Add an inch to each of these new measurements.
Mark the sides as front and back.
Here’s what my pattern looked like (without the length lines).
Now, all you have to do is cut it out around the seam allowance lines then up the middle and your pattern will be complete!
Did you learn something from this post? Consider:
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