Posted by on Mar 13, 2015 in Sewing, Theory | Comments Off on Hemming

This is part 9 in a series designed to walk you through designing and sewing an elastic waistband skirt. If you have missed steps, you should go back to this page.

The final step in making your skirt is to hem it to the correct length. Though a hem is generally considered to be at the bottom of a garment, by definition, it is any section that has turned under and sewn. That means that shirts, collars, sleeves, pant legs and skirts all have hems.

Today, I’m going to show you my favourite type of hem – the double-turn hem. This hem is turned twice in order to protect the edge of the garment from fraying.

You’ll need your iron heated to the correct heat, a ruler, and something to mark on your fabric. I use everyday chalk. Also, if you have one of these:

2015-02-19 10.29.44It will make this even easier. That’s a seam gauge, and I don’t have a ton of uses for it, but it does have the ability to set the red slider at a particular measurement and stay there. If you don’t have one, you can probably find a ruler lying around. Because they’re rigid, they’re the best option here.

If you’re using a seam gauge, set it to 1 inch. Place the top of the slider on the bottom of your skirt. If you’re using a ruler, place the 1 inch line on the bottom of your skirt and use the edge of your ruler.

2015-02-19 10.30.30Using your marking tool, mark right at the top of the gauge or ruler.

2015-02-19 10.30.47 2015-02-19 10.30.53

Continue to mark in this way all the way around the skirt.

Once it’s all marked, iron the seams open.

2015-02-19 10.35.06Fold the bottom of the skirt up to the marks and iron it into a crease.

Realization – I need a new ironing board cover

Fold the hem again and iron it. At this point, the chalk mark should be inside the hem.

doubled hem

Straight stitch this as close to the fold as possible. For me, that means putting the left side of my presser foot on the fold and adjusting my needle all the way to the left.

2015-02-19 10.42.35Congratulations! You’ve made your first item of clothing. Please make sure to send me a picture. I’d love to start a gallery of reader’s projects!

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