Making a Pattern from your Sloper

Posted by on Apr 13, 2015 in Fitted Skirt, Lessons, Projects, Sewing | Comments Off on Making a Pattern from your Sloper

This is step 6 in a series of lessons dedicated to help you design and make your own fitted waist skirt. If you’ve missed any steps, you should go back to this page.

Last time, I walked you through the process of drafting your very own skirt sloper. Today, we’re going to talk about how to turn those slopers (remember you made 2) into patterns for various skirt types.

You’re going to start with the slopers you made last time:

complete slopers Now, I’m going to reiterate a point I made last time:

sloper warningGot it? Good. Every alteration I’m going to show you is going to take place on a tracing of your slopers. I’m also going to show you the alterations on only one side of the sloper. It’s up to you to remember that you have to repeat the steps on the other side of the sloper.

You’re also going to see a lot of repetition. I figure you don’t want to read the headings you don’t want to draft a pattern for, so I’m going to tell you all the steps for each kind.

If you’d like, you can skip to the type of skirt you want to make by clicking the appropriate link:

Straight/Pencil Skirt

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloperMeasure 1 inch up from each of the darts and mark it.

straight pattern 1Make vertical lines one inch up from the centre of each dart.

straight pattern 2Draw a line from the top of the the vertical marks to the edges of each dart.

straight pattern 3Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

straight pattern 4Your Pencil Skirt pattern is now complete.

Basic A-Line

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloperRemember last time when we calculated “x”? If you don’t remember x, then measure the width of one of the darts. Measure the same amount out from the edge from the bottom of the curved edge of the skirt.

a-line pattern 1Draw a line connecting the edge of “x” to the part where your sloper starts to curve for the hip.

a-line pattern 2Connect the bottom of the skirt through the new edge.

a-line pattern 3Measure 1 inch up from each of the darts and mark it.

a-line pattern 4Make vertical lines one inch up from the centre of each dart. Draw a line from the top of the the vertical marks to the edges of each dart.

a-line pattern 5 a-line pattern 6

Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

a-line pattern 7Your Basic A-Line Skirt pattern is done!

Flared A-Line

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloper

Remember last time when we calculated “x”? If you don’t remember x, then measure the width of one of the darts. Measure the same amount out from the edge from the bottom of the curved edge of the skirt.

a-line pattern 1Draw a line connecting the edge of “x” to the part where your sloper starts to curve for the hip.

a-line pattern 2Connect the bottom of the skirt through the new edge.

a-line pattern 3Draw a line from the centre point of the deep dart to the bottom of the skirt.

a-line pattern 8Cut along that line then fold the dart in on itself. This will create a gap in the bottom of the skirt.

a-line pattern 9Trace around this new shape using your hip curve to make a new skirt hemline.

a-line pattern 10Measure 1 inch up from the centre of the dart.

a-line pattern 11Make vertical lines one inch up from the centre of the dart.

a-line pattern 12Draw a line from the top of the vertical mark to the edges of the dart.

a-line pattern 13Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

a-line pattern 14Your Flared A-Line skirt pattern is finished.

Flirty A-Line

Trace your sloper. Make it the length you decided plus one inch.

traced sloper

Remember last time when we calculated “x”? If you don’t remember x, then measure the width of one of the darts. Measure the same amount out from the edge from the bottom of the curved edge of the skirt.

a-line pattern 1Draw a line connecting the edge of “x” to the part where your sloper starts to curve for the hip.

a-line pattern 2Connect the bottom of the skirt through the new edge.

a-line pattern 3Draw lines from the centre point of each dart to the bottom of the skirt.

a-line pattern 15 Cut from the bottom of the skirt to the point of the darts along the lines. Fold each of the darts in on each other. This will create gaps in the hemline of the skirt

a-line pattern 15Trace this new shape using your hip curve to slope the hem to its new point.

a-line pattern 16Draw a seam allowance around three sides – not the straight edge. You’ll use that for the fold of the fabric.

a-line pattern 18Your Flirty A-Line Skirt pattern is complete!

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